A Crocheted swimsuit can be made using crochet cotton although if you plan on going swimming the cotton will absorb the water and the swimsuit will stretch and droop. Acrylic yarn will drain well and not absorb too much water. I would look for a yarn that has some stretch and would look good for a swimsuit. If you are not planning on going in the water the cotton will be a great choice.
Since all bodies are different, It is recommended you use the pattern as a guide while checking the size and shape against a favorite pair of underwear/bra or other bikini that fits or your own body. The initial bottom shape should be about an inch smaller than your ideal finished dimension all the way around.
MATERIALS: Light Weight Cotton Yarn: Four 50 gr balls of no. 5 cotton (175 yds per 50 gr ball) used double in Brown. Crochet hook size B/1 (English size 12) or size to give gauge. Some elastic thread.
SIZES: Misses' 10-12-14. Directions for sizes 12 and 14 are given in parentheses. Measurements for size 12 are given on chart.
1. Chain (ch)2. Slip stitch (sl st)3. Single crochet (sc)4. Double crochet (dc)5. Treble (tr)
1. Corded edging: Work in sc from left to right, always inserting hook to the right of stitch previously worked.
2. Mesh pattern:
Row 1: Ch 7; 1 tr in 4th ch from hook; * ch 3, skip 3 sts, 1 tr *.
Row 2 and following rows: Same as row 1 working the tr in the tr of the previous row.
GAUGE: 19 dc = 4"; 10 rows = 4" with crochet hook size B in dc.
7 spaces = 4"; 6 rows = 4" in Mesh Pattern.
BRA (70 grs for size 12)
Right cup: With 2 strands of yarn held together and crochet hook size B, ch 63 (67-71) and work in dc thus: ch 3, 12 (13-14) dc; 3 dc in 1 st, 50 (53-56) dc. -- 65 (69-73) dc.
Next row: Leave unworked the first 32 (34-36) sts. Draw up a loop in the 33rd (35th-37th) st; ch 2; and in the next 32 (34-36) sts work: 18 (19-20) dc; 3 dc in 1 st; and 13 (14-15) dc. Continuing working these incs one above the other, on each row 3 (4-5) more times.
Next row: Above the incs, work a double dec (** yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops ** (3 times) yo, draw through all 4 loops on hook); then work 1 row without any decreases, and 1 row with one single decrease (repeat from ** to ** twice only. At same time beginning on.
Row 3: At right edge, every row, dec 1 st (7 times); 2 sts 4 (5-6) times, and at left edge dec, alternately: * 1 st (once) and 2 sts (once) * (3 times); then 2 sts 5 (6-7) times.
Next row: Work one more dec then continue the shoulder strap, working on each row: ch 3 and 2 dc for 11" and fasten off. (To have even edges when decreasing 1 st, skip 1 st after the first ch 3 or before the last dc; to decrease 2 sts, skip 1 st and work then or before, at the end of row, one single dec).
Left cup: Work same as right cup but reversing shapings.
Finishing: Join the two cups along first row at center of front. Then work in corded edging all around cups, shoulder straps and back straps. Sew shoulder straps to center of length of back straps. Make a buttonhole loop at each end of back straps; make a chain 12" long and insert it in loops and tie in back.
PANTS (100 grs for size 12)Begin at top of front. With 2 strands of yarn held together and crochet hook size B, ch 46 (50-54). Work 6 rows even in dc, then, shape crotch: at each edge, every row, dec: 11 (12-13) sts (once); 3 sts (once), 2 sts, (once); 1 st 2 (3-4) times. Work 2 rows even on the remaining 10 sts, then at each edge, every row, inc: 1st (twice); 2 sts 14 (15-16) times -- 70 (74-78) sts. Work 5 rows even and fasten off.
Finishing: At each leg edge and at top of front and back work 1 row in sc working over 2 strands of elastic thread, then work 1 row of corded edging along sides and leg edges. Join the front and back at each edge with 3 tabs; for each tab draw up a loop on one side, ch 7, 1 sc on other opposite side, then work a row of corded edging, inserting hook in each chain.