Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Free Knitting Pattern Bubble Sailor Suit

Cabled & Sailor Bubble Suits Knit ePattern
Cabled & Sailor Bubble Suits Knit ePattern

 (blue suit in the photo)

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Design by Joan Beebe.

Approximate Sizes: 3, 6, 12 months


Intermediate
Size: 3{6-12} months
Finished Measurement: 20{22-24}"/51{56‑61} cm

Size Note: Instructions are written for size 3 months, with sizes 6 and 12 months in braces { }. Instructions will be easier to read, if you circle all the numbers pertaining to your size. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

MATERIALS
FINE 2 Yarn Weight
Sport Weight Yarn, approximately:
     MC (Blue)
          21/4{23/4-31/2} ounces, 285{345-440} yards
          [65{80-100} grams, 261{315‑402} meters]
     CC (White)
          1{11/4-11/4} ounces, 125{155-155} yards
          [30{35-35} grams, 114{142‑142} meters]
Straight knitting needles, sizes 3 (3.25 mm) and
     5 (3.75 mm) or sizes needed for gauge
Stitch holders - 2
Snap tape - 5" (12.5 cm)
Buttons - 3 (for placket)
Yarn needle
Sewing needle and thread
Optional - 3 Decorative buttons for trim

GAUGE: With larger size needles, in Stockinette Stitch,
24 sts and 32 rows = 4"

Note: Row gauge is very important in this design.

YOKE
FRONT
With CC and using larger size needles, cast on 62{68‑74} sts loosely.

Row 1 (Right side): (K1, P1) across.

Row 2: (P1, K1) across.

Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 (Seed Stitch).

Rows 5 thru 22{24-26}: Beginning with a knit row, work in Stockinette Stitch.

Next 8 Rows: Repeat Rows 1 and 2, 4 times.


NECK OPENING
Note: Maintain established Seed Stitch pattern throughout, unless otherwise instructed.

Row 1: Work across 18{20-22} sts, bind off next 26{28‑30} sts in knit (neck opening), work across remaining sts: 18{20‑22} sts each side.

Note: Both sides of Neck are worked at the same time, using separate yarn for eachside.

Rows 2-8: Work across; with second yarn, work across.

Rows 9 and 10: Work across; with second yarn, add on 16{17‑18} sts (Figs. 1a & b), work across: 34{37‑40} sts each side.


BACK
Rows 1 and 2: Work across; with second yarn, work across.

Row 3 (Buttonhole row): Work across; with second yarn, work across 2 sts, decrease(see Decreases), YO (Figs. 3a or b), work across.

Rows 4-6: Work across; with second yarn, work across.

Rows 7-10: Beginning with a knit row, work in Stockinette Stitch across to last 6 sts, work last 6 sts in Seed Stitch (left placket); with second yarn, work next 6 sts in Seed Stitch (right placket), work in Stockinette Stitch across.

Row 11 (Buttonhole row): Knit across to last 6 sts, work last 6 sts in Seed Stitch; with second yarn, work 2 sts in Seed Stitch, decrease, YO, work 2 sts in Seed Stitch, knit across.

Rows 12-18: Work in Stockinette Stitch across to last 6 sts, work last 6 sts in Seed Stitch; with second yarn, work next 6 sts in Seed Stitch, work in Stockinette Stitch across.

Row 19 (Buttonhole row): Repeat Row 11.

Rows 20 thru 24{26-28}: Work in Stockinette Stitch across to last 6 sts, work last 6 sts in Seed Stitch; with second yarn, work next 6 sts in Seed Stitch, work in Stockinette Stitch across.

Next 4 Rows: Work in Seed Stitch across; with second yarn, work in Seed Stitch across.

Bind off all sts loosely in knit.

Note: Yoke should measure 71/2{8‑81/2}"/ 19{20.5‑21.5} cm from cast on edge.


FRONT
With right side of Yoke Front facing, using larger size needles and MC, pick up 62{68‑74} sts evenly spaced across cast on edge (Fig. 7b): 62{68‑74} sts.

Beginning with a purl row, work in Stockinette Stitch until Front measures approximately 71/4{9‑103/4}"/18.5{23‑27.5} cm from Yoke, ending by working a purl row.

LEG SHAPING
Rows 1 and 2: Bind off 7{9‑10} sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, work across: 48{50‑54} sts. Bind off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 0{10‑8} rows (see Zeros, page 10), work across: 48{30‑38} sts.

Next Row (Decrease row): [Slip 1, K1, PSSO (Figs. 6a & b)], work across to last 2 sts, K2 tog (Fig. 4): 46{28‑36} sts.

Continue to decrease one stitch at each edge in same manner, every other row, 13{3‑6} times more: 20{22‑24} sts.

Work even until piece measures approximately
111/4{131/2-153/4}"/ 28.5{34.5‑40} cm from Yoke, ending by working a purl row.

Slip remaining sts onto st holder; cut yarn.


BACK
Sew placket loosely in place, lapping right over left.

With right side of Yoke Back facing, using larger size needles and MC, pick up 62{68‑74} sts evenly spaced across bound off edge working through both thicknesses of placket: 62{68‑74} sts.

Beginning with a purl row, work in Stockinette Stitch until Back measures approximately 71/4{9‑103/4}"/ 18.5{23‑27.5} cm from Yoke, ending by working a purl row.

LEG SHAPING
Row 1 (Decrease row): Slip 1, K1, PSSO, knit across to last 2 sts, K2 tog: 60{66‑72} sts.

Continue to decrease one stitch at each edge in same manner, every fourth row, 1{3‑5} time(s); then decrease every other row, 13{11‑9} times: 32{38‑44} sts.

Next 2 Rows: Bind off 6{8‑10} sts, work across: 20{22‑24} sts.
Slip remaining sts onto st holder; cut yarn.


SLEEVE
With right side facing, using larger size needles and MC, pick up 46{50‑54} sts evenly spaced along side of Yoke (Fig. 7a): 46{50‑54} sts.

Row 1: Purl across.

Row 2: Knit across.

Row 3: Purl across.

Rows 4-7: With CC, repeat Rows 2 and 3 twice.

Rows 8-11: With MC, repeat Rows 2 and 3 twice.

Row 12: With CC, K4{1-3}, K2 tog, (K3, K2 tog) 7{9‑9} times, K5{2‑4}: 38{40‑44} sts.

RIBBING
Change to smaller size needles.

Rows 1-5: Work across in K1, P1 ribbing.

Bind off all sts loosely in ribbing.

Repeat for second Sleeve.


FINISHING
Weave underarm and side in one continuous seam (Fig. 8), ending at beginning of Leg Shaping.

LEG RIBBING
With right side facing, using smaller size needles and MC, pick up 30{36‑42} sts evenly spaced across Front and 18{24‑30} sts evenly spaced across Back of Leg opening: 48{60‑72} sts.

Rows 1-5: Work across in K1, P1 ribbing.

Bind off all sts loosely in ribbing.

Repeat for second Leg opening.

BOTTOM RIBBING
With right side of Front facing, using smaller size needles and MC, pick up 4 sts evenly spaced across end of Leg Ribbing, slip sts from Front st holder onto empty needle and knit across, pick up 4 sts evenly spaced across end of Leg Ribbing: 28{30‑32} sts.

Rows 1-5: Work across in K1, P1 ribbing.

Bind off all sts in ribbing.

Repeat for Back.

Sew snap tape to Bottom Ribbings.

Add buttons.


GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

ABBREVIATIONS
CC        Contrasting Color
cm         centimeters
K           knit
MC        Main Color
mm        millimeters
P            purl
PSSO    pass slipped stitch over
st(s)       stitch(es)
tog         together
YO(s)     yarn over(s)

 — work instructions following  as many more times as indicated in addition to the first time.

† to † — work all instructions from first † to second † as many times as specified.

( ) or [ ] — work enclosed instructions as many times as specified by the number immediately following or work all enclosed instructions in the stitch indicated or contains explanatory remarks.

colon (:) — the number(s) given after a colon at the end of a row or round denote(s) the number of stitches or spaces you should have on that row or round.

work even — work without increasing or decreasing in the established pattern.

GAUGE
Exact gauge is essential for proper fit. Needle size given in instructions is merely a guide and should never be used without first making a sample swatch approximately 4" (10 cm) square in the stitch, yarn, and needle specified. Then measure it, counting your stitches and rows carefully. If your swatch is larger or smaller than specified, make another, changing needle size to get the correct gauge. If you have more rows per inch than specified, use a larger needle for the purl rows. If you have fewer rows per inch, use a smaller needle on the purl rows. Keep trying until you find the size needles that will give you the specified gauge. Once proper gauge is obtained, measure width of piece approximately every 3" (7.5 cm) to be sure gauge remains consistent.

Knit Terminology

Yarn Weights & Symbols Chart

Knitting Needle Sizes

Skill Levels


  Beginner - Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal shaping.
Easy - Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.
Intermediate - Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace, simple intarsia, double-pointed needles and knitting
in the round needle techniques, mid-level shaping and finishing.
Experienced - Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows, fair isle, more intricate intarsia, cables, lace
patterns, and numerous color changes.


ZEROS
To consolidate the length of an involved pattern, Zeros are sometimes used so that all sizes can be combined. For example, decrease one stitch at each edge, every row, 0{6‑4} times means the first size would do nothing, the second size would decrease 6 times, and the largest size would decrease 4 times.

INCREASES
INCREASING EVENLY
ACROSS A ROW/ROUND
Add one to the number of increases required and divide that number into the number of stitches on the needle. Subtract one from the result and the new number is the approximate number of stitches to be worked between each increase. Adjust the number as needed.

ADDING NEW STITCHES
Insert the right needle into stitch as if to knit, yarn over and pull loop through (Fig. 1a), insert the left needle into the loop just worked from front to back and slip the loop onto the left needle (Fig. 1b). Repeat for required number of stitches.

Adding New Stitches

KNIT INCREASE
Knit the next stitch but do not slip the old stitch off the left needle (Fig. 2a). Insert the right needle into the back loop of the same stitch and knit it (Fig. 2b), then slip the old stitch off the left needle.

Knit Increase

YARN OVER (abbreviated YO)
After a knit stitch, before a knit stitch
Bring the yarn forward between the needles, then back over the top of the right hand needle, so that it is now in position to knit the next stitch (Fig. 3a).

After a purl stitch, before a knit stitch
Take yarn over right hand needle to the back, so that it is now in position to knit the next stitch (Fig. 3b).


DECREASES
KNIT 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated K2 tog)
Insert the right needle into the front of the first two stitches on the left needle as if to knit(Fig. 4), then knit them together as if they were one stitch.

Knit 2 Together

PURL 2 TOGETHER
(abbreviated P2 tog)
Insert the right needle into the front of the first two stitches on the left needle as if to purl(Fig. 5), then purl them together as if they were one stitch.

Purl 2 Together

SLIP 1, KNIT 1, PASS
SLIPPED STITCH OVER
(abbreviated slip 1, K1, PSSO)
Slip one stitch as if to knit (Fig. 6a). Knit the next stitch. With the left needle, bring the slipped stitch over the knit stitch (Fig. 6b) and off the needle.

Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass Slipped Stitch Over

PICKING UP STITCHES
When instructed to pick up stitches, insert the needle from the front to the back under two strands at the edge of the worked piece (Figs. 7a & b). Put the yarn around the needle as if to knit, then bring the needle with the yarn back through the stitch to the right side, resulting in a stitch on the needle.
Repeat this along the edge, picking up the required number of stitches.
A crochet hook may be helpful to pull yarn through.

Picking Up Stitches

WEAVING SEAMS
With the right side of both pieces facing you and edges even, sew through both sides once to secure the seam. Insert the needle under the bar between the first and second stitches on the row and pull the yarn through (Fig. 8). Insert the needle under the next bar on the second side. Repeat from side to side, being careful to match rows. If the edges are different lengths, it may be necessary to insert the needle under two bars at one edge.

Weaving Seams
FREE FOR YOU from Leisure Arts, Inc. ©2013 All rights reserved. These instructions may be photocopied and shared with your friends. They may not be kitted or sold. We have made every effort to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot, however, be responsible for human error, typographical mistakes, or variations in individual work.
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